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Blogging since 1998. By David Wertheimer

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Vacation log: Massachusetts 2006, IV

Last stop on our vacation was Rockport, Mass. and Cape Ann. My grandfather settled in Salem when he came to the United States in the 1930s; he used to bring my father and uncle there every summer, and we still go, in his honor and for nostalgic fun.

Once upon a time, we stayed in Danvers at what is now an office building. For the past few years we’ve been in the Quarterdeck at the Yankee Clipper Inn, but this is the last time we’ll be going there. The inn has been on a slow decline ever since the current owner bought the property in 2001. This year, we encountered a green pool, a shortage of food at breakfast, and a “For Sale” sign in front of the Quarterdeck (a separate building with terrific ocean views). In retrospect, our stay wasn’t as bad as it seemed, but it was bad enough to leave people consistently miffed. That plus the suspicion that the inn might not even be there next summer led to a weekend of exploration, and we found a new inn that we’ll be trying in 2007.

Hospitality quibbles aside, the family trip to Cape Ann is always fun. We go swimming and fishing off the rocky coastline, explore the towns of Gloucester, Rockport, Essex and Ipswich, and spend hours playing ball and basically doing nothing. Friday sees us digging into tidepools on Bass Rocks, looking for crabs to race and starfish to stick to our fingers; Saturday we head to Bearskin Neck for shopping, penny candy and the all-family bubblegum-bubble-blowing contest. (This year saw a three-way tie for the lead. I came in second to last as usual.)

The food! Every year we rack our brains for places to eat, and every year we wind up with phenomenal food. Dinner at The Rudder in Rocky Neck is easy, plentiful, and thoroughly enjoyable, and everything from calamari to stir fry is done quite well. Likewise, we fell into Halibut Point for pub food and wound up with good salads, good soup, and a good waitress. Our annual dinner at the 1640 Hart House gets better every year—our food was uniformly excellent, and the servers are starting to remember us, which is a treat.

Deserving its own special mention is Roy Moore Lobster Co. on Bearskin Neck, our standard weekend lunch and hands down the best lobster known to man. The lobsters are brought directly to this fish shack from boats pulling into the harbor, and within hours they are cooked and served with drawn butter on paper platters. No middlemen means complete freshness. Roy Moore boils its lobsters in ocean water, too, which gives the lobsters a unique flavor, sweeter than usual and flat-out delicious. I like lobster but I love Roy Moore’s lobster. Served by the cheery lobsterman surrounded by bays of crustaceans and eaten out back on wooden lobster traps, this meal is one for the ages. I want more already.

We drove home Sunday, so thus ends my travelblog. But I’m off to Paris on business this weekend, and if I find anything interesting….

Vacation log: Massachusetts 2006, III

So much for abundant wifi—I found nary a signal the last three days of my vacation—but I’m home and can continue my travelblog.

Our Martha’s Vineyard stay was terrific, as expected. Food: great meals at Atria (best restaurant on the island for us, casual elegance with smiling service), Among the Flowers (go for the lobster roll, stay for everything else), The Terrace (highfalutin dining at the Charlotte Inn, and worth it), and Larsen’s Fish Shop in Menemsha. Decent I-don’t-know-what-to-eat food can be found at The Wharf in Edgartown and Slice of Life in Oak Bluffs. And for our money, Vineyard Scoops is better than the more famous Mad Martha’s ice cream.

As for activities, we did our usual complement: bicycling the island with stops at the beach; walking all the town centers, including Menemsha; cruising around in our car, discovering back roads and small shops. The charms of the island continue. We love the variety of lifestyles and the continued immaculateness of the Charlotte Inn. It’s a great escape from the mainland.

Midweek I’ll post a rundown of our last vacation stop, in Rockport.

Quotable

From the footnotes on the menu at Atria, in Edgartown, Martha’s Vineyard:

“If you are smoking we will assume you are on fire and take the necessary actions.”

“Unsupervised children will be given a double espresso and a puppy.”

Vacation log: Massachusetts 2006, II

Took a few days, but I’m back with another travelblog post. We are now on Martha’s Vineyard after a great stint in Nantucket. Here’s an update through today.

Nantucket is a perfect place to relax. The seemingly universal attitude on the island is one of easygoing, upbeat nonchalance. We spent two nights at the Union Street Inn, just off Main Street in Nantucket Town. The inn is newly renovated and perfectly run; we were most impressed with how simple and effective our stay unfolded. A lunch visit to the White Elephant confirmed that it is sophisticated, beautiful, and not for us until we have a few kids to keep busy (and perhaps a boat, and cousins named Chad and Muffy).

There’s not much to do on Nantucket, in a good way. We did plenty of damage shopping, mostly at Victoria Greenhood for jewelry and Marina Clothing menswear (surprise of the week: I outspent Amy so far). Provisions serves up great take-out sandwiches and Even Keel is lightning quick at lunchtime. We had one good dinner at Centre Street Bistro and one mediocre one at Slip 14, although the environment was fun.

We spent one day biking around the island, and can recommend Young’s for rentals. Down the block, Indian Summer Surfwear has good active beach clothing; more impressively, they sold me the world’s greatest backpack in 1990—I just stopped using it last year—and they still have a nice selection. Had we had more time we would have biked or shuttle-bused to the far side of the island, but that will have to wait for our next trip.

After two-plus days, it was back onto the high-speed ferry to Hyannis, and following a quick round of Pirate’s Cove miniature golf in Falmouth (David Wertheimer: 33 going on 12), we drove to Woods Hole and took another ferry to the Vineyard. We arrived in Edgartown, quaint and cozy as ever, just before dinnertime.

We are back at the Charlotte Inn. No words I compose on the fly will do justice to the feeling we get when we are here. The inn is impeccably gorgeous, upscale without being stuffy, comfortable without losing its elegance. We are currently sitting on a private patio overlooking a semi-private garden and yard with an intricate and immaculate floral display in front of us. Off to the corner is a converted shed that displays antiques and period pieces from the early 20th century. We had tea and snacks on the porch this afternoon with an endearing summer staffer (were I older I’d call her “just lovely”) and the innkeepers remembered us and welcomed us back with a smile. It’s our fourth trip overall, the second since we got engaged here, and we hope to return for years and years to come.

Next post I’ll run down our Vineyard explorations and food. We’re here for three glorious nights. Time to kick back some more.

Vacation log: Massachusetts 2006

It occurred to me in this era of abundant broadband and laptop lugging that I could keep a nice travelblog during my vacation. I left New York today; my itinerary covers 10 days in Massachusetts. We’ll see if I can keep this up every other day if not daily.

For quality research purposes, I’ve boldfaced hotel, restaurant and activity names; if I’m diligent about it I’ll hyperlink things when there’s time.

First up: Hyannis, where I’m currently in a Sheraton Four Points that Starwood should be ashamed of. This hotel has, among other detractions, mosquitos in the hall; iron scorches, stains, and tears in the carpet; cracks and glue on the bathroom counter; dust mice stuck to the curtains; three sets of holes in the front door where security latches used to be; silverfish by the ice machine; and mildew in some rooms (I’m in my second room). It’s not all bad, really–our current room is clean enough, the sheets and towels are new, and the TV, clock and Internet access all work fine. But this hotel is in dire need of refurbishing and some quality control. Then again, for $45 after Starwood point redemptions, I shouldn’t be complaining.

Now, dinner on the Cape is another thing entirely. Amy and I drove to Chatham for our second meal at the Impudent Oyster, a fantastic local spot with a great combination of quality, hominess and style. The food is excellent, service friendly and professional, and the bartender makes what my well-versed wife calls the best dirty vodka martini she’s ever had. The restaurant is 45 minutes from our waystation in Hyannis and was worth the drive. We’ll be back a third time for sure.

This lovely Sheraton is just a one-night affair, as tomorrow we grab the high-speed ferry to Nantucket. Assuming I can find wifi on the island, expect another post over the weekend.

Happy birthday dear Myrna

RecordMy grandfather on my mother’s side was, among other things, a bandleader who played piano and accordion. For her tenth birthday, he made a record of his band singing “Happy Birthday” to her. It was done on some sort of home-recording setup at 78 rpm. The label says “Myrna 10th Birthday 1955″ on it, written in pen on the center of a 7” record. As far as we know it’s the only surviving recording of his music.

My grandfather passed away in 1971, two years before I was born. For as long as I can remember, this record sat in my parents’ living room in their record collection, neglected due to the disappearance of 78 rpm record players.

This Mother’s Day we bought Mom a USB record player that, using the Audacity software programm, could translate 78 rpm recordings on her iMac. Fortunately, the record was kept in a dust cover and had not significantly warped or scratched. And with surprisingly little effort and distortion, my grandfather’s song was rediscovered.

Needless to say it’s a bit mind-blowing to hear one’s father/grandfather 35 years after his death. Mom cried a lot and hasn’t gotten over the thrill of it. I know I have yet to tire of the novelty of hearing my grandfather perform for my mother.

Herewith, my grandfather and his band. Listen closely for some great banter before and after the song. That’s Grandpa on the piano.

On spending four days in Chicago

A handful of (rather mundane, my apologies) observations:

• This town, at least in the area I’m in, is clean, comfortable, and gorgeous. I love the abundant architecture—unlike New York, Chicago seems to embrace every era of skyscraper style, and the overall effect is terrific. Art deco next to modernism next to a soon-to-be Trump tower on the river. Great.

• I’m not used to how wide the streets are, and how few cars are street-parked in the Loop and Magnificent Mile. Compared to Manhattan the place almost feels empty.

• Lots of good food: I have enjoyed Italian sausage and a Blackie burger thus far and am trying Ben Pao Chinese tonight. Which is a good thing, because the Hyatt’s convention center food is really quite awful.

• The Windy City ain’t windy when I’m in town: high 70’s and lots of sun all week. You’re welcome, Chicago.

FishyAnd to top it all off, my hotel, the Monaco Chicago, provides a complimentary fish to keep the lonely traveler company. My fish is boring but it’s nice to have a pet on loan. Highly recommended travel perk. The Monaco is hell-bent on details: a choice of turndown sweets, two bathrobes in the room, complimentary wine tasting in the lobby, even a handwriting analysis psychic and a massage therapist free of charge during the tasting. If it’s the little things that count, the Monaco’s number is very high.

Dictionary listings

Jason Kottke notes, “I’ve been keeping track of words which return a link to a dictionary definition of the word in Google.”

As kottke.org defines blog topicality, now is probably a good time to call out my own dictionary word list. Since early 2004 I’ve been tracking in del.icio.us (almost) every time I’ve looked up a definition, 164 in all. Sometimes it’s been a supplement to what I’m reading; others have been to confirm something I’m writing; still others are just sheer curiosity. A few trends can be spotted in the list if one looks hard enough.

A full list of terms (with links but without contextual notes) appears in the Read More link below for archival purposes.

  1. comportment – Definitions from Dictionary.com
  2. Cautel – definition
  3. vertiginous: Definition
  4. sedition: Definition
  5. kleptocracy: Definition
  6. Dictionary.com/multiplicitous
  7. Dictionary.com/flibbertigibbet
  8. A word for “neither solid nor liquid?” | Ask MetaFilter
  9. jerry-rig
  10. Dictionary.com/jury-rig
  11. pandemic: Definition
  12. epidemic: Definition
  13. disseminate: Definition, Synonyms and Much More From Answers.com
  14. Dictionary.com/dastardly
  15. Sloppy joe – Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
  16. Dictionary.com/sloth
  17. Dictionary.com/abecedary
  18. Dictionary.com/cairn
  19. Dictionary.com/taproot
  20. Dictionary.com/cherub
  21. Dictionary.com/buffet
  22. Dictionary.com/marginalize
  23. Dictionary.com/boondoggle
  24. Dictionary.com/equitable
  25. Dictionary.com/beneficent
  26. Dictionary.com/borne
  27. Dictionary.com/purveyor
  28. Dictionary.com/animation
  29. Dictionary.com/fetid
  30. Dictionary.com/influx
  31. Dictionary.com/divest
  32. Dictionary.com/levee
  33. Dictionary.com/commingle
  34. Dictionary.com/orgastic
  35. Dictionary.com/recondite
  36. Dictionary.com/commiserating
  37. Dictionary.com/conjecture
  38. Dictionary.com/albatross
  39. Dictionary.com/dilution
  40. Dictionary.com/titer
  41. Dictionary.com/fending
  42. Dictionary.com/decried
  43. Dictionary.com/breviary
  44. Dictionary.com/occlude
  45. Dictionary.com/marque
  46. Dictionary.com/biddable
  47. Dictionary.com/quixotic
  48. Dictionary.com/egregious
  49. Dictionary.com/premier
  50. Dictionary.com/premiere
  51. Dictionary.com/bogart
  52. Dictionary.com/wonky
  53. Dictionary.com/poultice
  54. Dictionary.com/taffeta
  55. Dictionary.com/mimesis
  56. Dictionary.com/endoscopy
  57. Dictionary.com/gastric
  58. Dictionary.com/exegesis
  59. Dictionary.com/obsequious
  60. Dictionary.com/verbiage
  61. Dictionary.com/vernacular
  62. Dictionary.com/asperity
  63. Dictionary.com/snipe
  64. Dictionary.com/belie
  65. Dictionary.com/semblance
  66. Dictionary.com/vanguard
  67. NIMBY: Definition
  68. Dictionary.com/emphasis
  69. Dictionary.com/dongle
  70. Dictionary.com/replicate
  71. Dictionary.com/contumely
  72. cottage industry: Definition and Much More From Answers.com
  73. Dictionary.com/propriety
  74. Dictionary.com/prescient
  75. Dictionary.com/productional
  76. Dictionary.com/effluent
  77. Dictionary.com/employee
  78. Dictionary.com/coworker
  79. Dictionary.com/colleague
  80. Dictionary.com/unequivocally
  81. Dictionary.com/dynasty
  82. Dictionary.com/fortuity
  83. Dictionary.com/manipulable
  84. Dictionary.com/half
  85. Dictionary.com/unprepossessing
  86. Dictionary.com/ignominy
  87. Dictionary.com/rambunctious
  88. Dictionary.com/postulate
  89. anastrophe
  90. anaphora
  91. What is Chiasmus
  92. Cliche Finder
  93. Dictionary.com/benediction
  94. Dictionary.com/promise
  95. Dictionary.com/denouement
  96. Dictionary.com/necrology
  97. Dictionary.com/unawares
  98. Dictionary.com/duende
  99. Dictionary.com/cajole
  100. Dictionary.com/presence
  101. Dictionary.com/pervade
  102. Dictionary.com/efficacy
  103. Dictionary.com/efficacious
  104. Dictionary.com/redact
  105. Dictionary.com/ruckus
  106. Dictionary.com/hoo-ha
  107. Dictionary.com/uproar
  108. Dictionary.com/furor
  109. Dictionary.com/fracas
  110. Dictionary.com/clamor
  111. Dictionary.com/arch
  112. Dictionary.com/recalcitrant
  113. Dictionary.com/capricious
  114. Dictionary.com/capacious
  115. Dictionary.com/strapping
  116. Dictionary.com/stridently
  117. Dictionary.com/modicum
  118. Dictionary.com/shyster
  119. Dictionary.com/grok
  120. Dictionary.com/sumptuous
  121. Dictionary.com/heathen
  122. Dictionary.com/ligate
  123. Dictionary.com/barista
  124. Dictionary.com/obviate
  125. Dictionary.com/sanguine
  126. Thesaurus.com/despite
  127. Thesaurus.com/regardless
  128. Thesaurus.com/reluctant
  129. Dictionary.com/conceit
  130. Dictionary.com/rejoinder
  131. Dictionary.com/notoriety
  132. Dictionary.com/myriad
  133. Dictionary.com/renascence
  134. Yo, vote! | csmonitor.com
  135. Dictionary.com/bi-
  136. Dictionary.com/languorous
  137. Dictionary.com/indolent
  138. Dictionary.com/dilatory
  139. Dictionary.com/gravitas
  140. Dictionary.com/ditto
  141. Dictionary.com/persnickety
  142. Dictionary.com/prow
  143. Dictionary.com/itinerant
  144. Dictionary.com/palpable
  145. Dictionary.com/glower
  146. Dictionary.com/bittersweet
  147. Dictionary.com/plectrum
  148. Dictionary.com/sycophant
  149. Dictionary.com/end-all
  150. Dictionary.com/be-all
  151. Dictionary.com/unctuous
  152. Dictionary.com/smarmy
  153. Dictionary.com/wrester
  154. Dictionary.com/double-tongued
  155. Double-Tongued Word Wrester
  156. Dictionary.com/ostensible
  157. Dictionary.com/prurience
  158. Dictionary.com/hotfoot
  159. Dictionary.com/lug
  160. Dictionary.com/ingenious
  161. Dictionary.com/touchstone
  162. Dictionary.com/twee
  163. Dictionary.com/peripatetic
  164. Dictionary.com/jocular

Girder & Panel

Towers--click to enlargeIt struck me yesterday that my favorite building in New York has a lot in common with my favorite building in Hong Kong.

I don’t mention it much in this space, but I’m a huge architecture buff. The Bank of China Tower, at left in the image shown here, is one of my all-time favorite modern constructions, despite I.M. Pei’s apparent affront to feng shui. And for the past few months I’ve been extolling the bold virtues of the Hearst Tower to anyone who will listen.

A toast, then, to diagonal support beams.

Bank of China Tower

Hearst Tower

(The title of this post refers to the classic Girder and Panel toy of days past, which I may still have stashed away in my parents’ basement, and which is once again available. I wonder if I’m too old to get one.)

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