Frank Bruni writes today how restaurants have shifted from blase to dismayed at his canceled reservations.
I’ve been warily surveying my own neighborhood, and my actions, too. Our neighborhood Italian joint of choice is still jam-packed, even at 5:30 in the evening. But this is a restaurant that can serve two people a three-course meal with a glass of wine for $70. One might expect it to thrive, which so far, it is.
I’ve had a couple of fancy dinners the past few weeks where there’s been no second seating–by 9 p.m. the restaurant has scattered empty tables. Ruby Foo’s in Times Square defied this trend, but countless other restaurants are starting to feel the strain.
At home, I’m ordering in less frequently; the urge to save money is trumping the 20-minute neighborhood quickie once or twice a week more than it used to. (Also, there’s no good Chinese food near me. An open letter to the restaurant owners of New York City: please open a decent Chinese place on the Upper West Side! Everything uptown is mediocre at best, and heaven knows all these people should stop eating at Saigon Grill.)
The city in general is going to look far more bleak next spring than it does right now. Come February, I expect a rash of store closings, restaurants and otherwise, which will leave the city pockmarked like my local stretch of Broadway. One can only hope things don’t get that bad.